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San Sebastian del Oeste

3/11/2015

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San Sebastián was founded as a mining town in 1605, during the early Spanish colonial Viceroyalty of New Spain period. New Spain was a Spanish territory that came into existence in 1522, the year following 1521's Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire; the Viceroyalty of New Spain was created as the Royal administration of New Spain. It covered Mexico, Spanish Central America, Spain's Caribbean colonies, and parts of the Gulf Coast of North America, primarily La Florida. The Viceroyalty existed until independence was won by Mexico in 1821.

Gold, silver and lead were mined in the area. More than 25 mines and a number of foundries were established by 1785.  Silver mining became the main driver of not only the economy of New Spain, but vastly enriched Spain, and transformed the global economy.   For all the interesting details of Spain’s conquests beginning with Herman Cortes, check out Wikipedia’s New Spain article.

San Sebastian was formally established as a city in 1812.  At one time a provincial capital and mining boom town of 30,000 people, you will find it strangely deserted with only about 900 people living there now.

I decided to leave the heat of PV behind for a day to visit San Sebastian and check out this historical mining town for myself.  One option was to take a bus to La Estancia and hitchhike the last five miles.  I learned of a La Cruz local taking small groups up the mountain in her Hiace Toyota van, a four cylinder Mexico model that had the look and feel of VW vans.  A long-time La Cruz resident and USA expat, April (under the call sign Wave House) has several tours she promotes to cruisers over the morning radio net. It turned out to be a good choice as she has a wealth of knowledge about the area and was a great guide.

After picking up the group next to PV Sailing (a local sail loft), only two blocks from where I was staying, she drove us towards the mountains, through Las Palmas and reached La Estancia after about an hour.  The final miles were over dirt and cobblestone roads flanked by trees and white houses with red trim. The first order of business after we arrived was lunch at the La Lupita's restaurant to have lunch.  We developed a hunger after hiking the trail to the St. Gertrude mine.  The air was cooler here at 4,500 feet.

After lunch we explored this sleepy town for an hour-and-a-half starting with the main plaza which had a gazebo stage as many plazas do.  There were several eateries in addition to Lupita’s only a few lodging facilities.  April recommended Hotel El Puente ($18/night) for its basic but tranquil surroundings.  It was a step back in time; the old adobe houses and signs looked like they were straight out of a Clint Eastwood film.

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La Lupita restaurant
The 7-person group and the guide, April, enjoyed a family-style  lunch for 120 pesos each gathered around a big table. Everything was fresh, flavorful and tasty in this family-owned restaurant  The service was great and the place was neatly decorated with bright colored table cloths and dishes.  Big pitchers of "aqua fresca," a fruit flavored water, were waiting on the tables.    The server ladies brought multiple plates of chips and salsas, quesadillas, shredded pork, red spicy rice, chicken mole, frijoles (refried beans) and home-made tortillas.  It was the meal of the day.  Afterwards, we were served small plates of  dessert which tasted like a cross between a flan and rice pudding.  All in all, its was a very good Mexican meal in an authentic atmosphere at the Comedor la Lupita. The comedor (Mexican dining room) was named after the daughter of the owner, Lupita.
The church is always located near the town plaza and most pueblos have both.  Plazas serve as an important place in Mexican pueblos.  Located near the center of  the pueblo, the plaza is where the most important buildings are located, such as the church (most importantly), city hall, market, hospital, etc.  Regardless of size or population, the Mexican town is organized around the plaza.  It is here where key events take place:  festivals, national celebrations, social gatherings, music concerts, and political events.

The church, dedicated to the town's patron saint, San Sebastian, was originally constructed in 1608 but was rebuilt in 1868 after an earthquake hit the area.  At the time, Catholic church governance was all the locals knew. 
The Church of Saint Sebastian was designed in the colonial Spanish baroque style. It has notable architectural details, including Corinthian columns and ceiling vault frescos.  The town celebrates its patron saint with a week-long festival which starts in late January of each year.
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Hacienda Jalisco on the Road to San Sebastian

3/7/2015

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En route to San Sebastian del Oeste, the Hacienda Jalisco, now a bed-and-breakfast rustic guesthouse, was built 225 years ago by the Spanish guard to hold and protect the output of silver mines of San Sebastian, in preparation for shipment to Spain.  Staying at the Hacienda will take travelers back 150 years to get a taste of what life was like in the Spanish colonial era.

The term hacienda comes from ‘hacer’ which means to make something … in this case it was large estate where silver was produced. 
The word Jalisco comes from the Náhuatl words xali ixco meaning sandy surface.

A massive structure with two foot-thick adobe and rock walls, great wooden shutters and doors, connected by massive ceilings and skirted by faded fresco paintings. Each of the five individual guest rooms upstairs are adorned with antique furniture pieces, large bathrooms and fireplaces.  Oil lamps are used as there is no electricity in the Hacienda’s guest rooms. 

The ground level contains a combination library/dining room (now a museum of sorts), servants' quarters and a kitchen. Antiques, books, original maps, archeological artifacts, mining tools, and ledgers throughout room highlight the Hacienda's colorful history. An impressive wrap-around balcony offers views of the Sierra Madre range.   Originally, the property had no electricity but today there are a few lights and AC plugs around the Hacienda ... I noticed a few solar panels on the well-weathered red tile roof.

Many Hollywood celebrities, such as Peter O’Toole, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, have stayed at Hacienda Jalisco.  John Huston was a close friend of expatriate Bud Acord, a Hollywood artistic type who was responsible for renovating and maintaining the property for many years as its proprietor. He arrived in the early 1960s and found the 1840s style Hacienda Jalisco in a greatly dilapidated condition.  Acord met film director Huston when he was filming the “Night of the Iguana” near Mismaloya Beach, a few miles South of Puerto Vallarta.

During its mining heyday, the European mine managers and their families lived in the upstairs rooms overlooking the courtyard where ore was pulverized using big grinding wheels (an example seen in the courtyard) driven by a water power.  The stone wall ovens, used in the smelting operations, reached high temperatures from having the tallest chimney in the area.  Remnants of the chimney remain behind the ovens.  After extraction, the silver was melted into bars for transport. With the various toxic chemicals used to extract the silver from the ore, it was a dirty and unforgiving operation performed by the local Indians, but yielded riches for Spain.  The rock in the mines was broken down with pick axes and carried out by workers in backpacks to waiting carts which were transported by mules to the smelters.  The mine workers were paid in chits which they could cash out in the company stores

The mining boom ended with the Mexican Revolution in 1910 which dethroned the long-time, autocratic president at the time, Porfirio Diaz. Popular Mexican figures, such as Francisco Madero, Pancho Villa and Emiliano Zapata arose to take part in the rebellion against Díaz, and separate efforts eventually coalesced into what became known as the Mexican Revolution. Due to the turmoil and bloodshed, workers at the mines ran away, and during the subsequent eleven years of war, most of the furnishings and equipment were looted. The hacienda remained abandoned for almost half a century, until Bud Acord purchased it.

The mines were, in part, responsible for the start of Puerto Vallarta. Then known as Las Peñas and consisting of just a few huts at the mouth of the Rio Cuale, it was used to supply the mines with salt which was taken by mules up to San Sebastian and other mines in the High Sierras and used in the smelting process to extract silver and other materials from the ore. The silver and gold from the mines was sent, again by mule train through Guadalajara and Mexico City to Veracruz, where it was sent, once a year, to Spain.

Today, it’s rumored that silver is still to be found in the surrounding hills, buried by former mine owners who feared bandidos.  The owners never returned to claim it after the revolution.  Ghosts have also been reported around the hacienda by persons staying overnight on the grounds.

In 2010,
Endeavour Silver Corp. announced that it has acquired a multi-year option to purchase the San Sebastian silver-gold properties in Jalisco State, Mexico from IMMSA (Grupo Mexico), one of the largest mining companies in Mexico.  The mine which has been dormant since its demise may re-open when the price of silver recovers from its current depressed levels.  There is local controversy over the fact that the company plans open pit mining, thus changing the pastoral landscape of the area.

We hiked into the mountains to see one of the mines optioned by Endeavour.  According to the hand-lettered sign in Spanish at the shaft entrance, Mina Sta. Gertrudis (St. Gertrude's Mine) dates from 1880 and runs 270 feet straight into the mountain.  We walked in with flashlights until we reached a section where it has caved in.  The shaft is high enough so I could stand up ... but just barely. It was registered as a silver mine for the Hacienda Jalisco and was worked by 12 men and 3 boys. St. Gertrude was a Benedictine mystic and theologian born in the 13th century. The Roman Catholic Church celebrates the Feast of St. Gertrude on November 16th.

Until a few years ago, the road was so bad it was impassible for a regular car and took most of the day for a 4-wheeler to make the 4500-foot climb into the pine country of San Sebastian and Hacienda Jalisco.  Now the paved road makes the trip up in to the Sierra Madre Occidental mountains to San Sebastian a mere 1½ to 2 hour drive. The building of the Progresso Bridge was also big time saver.  As in all of Mexico, you need to watch for the "topes" — so called speed bumps, many with no painted warning stripes, or the paint so worn off you don't see them until it's too late to avoid the jolt. And the pot holes ... some deep and unmarked.  There is also a rustic airstrip for prop planes and small jets near the hacienda for the not-so-faint of heart.

Don't fool yourself ... if WiFi, television and nightlife is your cup of tea, then better stay somewhere else. But if you want to borrow a night from the past, this can be a tranquil place to stay. On top of the history of the place (you are spending the night above a museum), the grounds are serene, in rustic surroundings and the ambiance can ignite the imagination.  Hiking in the cool pine forests is another activity to enjoy.

Hacienda Jalisco
San Sebastian del Oeste, Jalisco. Mexico
Phone: + 52 (322) 22 29638
Cel: 044 322 107 7007
Atencion en Español
Cel 044 322 139 23 89
Web: www.haciendajalisco.com
Email: info@haciendajalisco.com


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Mexico Checkout from the Puerto Vallarta Area

2/20/2015

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Mexico Publications in English

1/8/2015

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Baja Region

The Baja Citizen
Baja Insider
Baja Traveler
Gringo Gazette

Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo


Imagine Mexico


La Cruz de Huanacaxtle

Inside La Cruz

Lost Cabos


Cabo Living
Los Cabos

Mazatlan

Mazatlan Today
M!

Mexico

Escape Artist: Mexico
Mexperience

Puerto Vallarta

Banderas News
Banderas Bay Events

Vallarta Tribune
Vallarta Today
PV Angels

Sayulita

Sayulita Life
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Puerto Vallarta's Marinas

12/18/2014

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PicturePuerto Vallarta Marina Locations



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Entrance from Banderas Bay to Paradise Village Marina (Port) and Nuevo Vallarta Marina (Starboard)

Paradise Village Marina and Yacht Club

Web: http://www.paradisevillagemarina.com

GPS:
Latitude: 20°41.2’N
Longitude: 105°17.9’W

Address:
Paseo de los Cocoteros #1,
Nuevo Vallarta, Nayarit
Mexico
Tel: +52-322-22-66728, Fax:+52-322-22-66728, VHF Channel 16
Email: marina@paradisevillagegroup.com

Berths:
200, from 26’ to 240’

Depth:
15 feet

Rate:
~ $.65/foot/day in the winter

~ $.38/foot/day in the summer

No additional charge for liveaboards

Fuel:
Not available

Haulout:
Haulout not available

Comments:
All facilities, including pumpout, picnic area, snack bar, sail wash, gas run, club house, tennis courts, mail/message. Automatic gate keys, 24-hr. security, cable TV, potable water, use of hotel facilities. On-site shopping center. There is on-going dredging at the entrance. Offers customs and immigration service. Notably the most famous, more big yachts, located in an area with tourist attractions and shops (Starbucks, etc.).  

Paradise Village Marina attracts boaters because it is clean, it is relatively well run, and it is an integral part of the the Paradise Village Resort, including many of its amenities.  However, it is surrounded by a very touristy environment which some cruisers do not like.

Make sure you have your passports, boat registration papers and Mexican Liability Insurance paperwork when you go in as well as the paperwork from your last port.
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Harbormaster Dick Markie has been there for 16 years and is an experienced boater.

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Entrance to Paradise Village Marina and Marina Nuevo Vallarta
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Map of Paradise Village Marina and Marina Nuevo Vallarta area (source: vallartainfo.com)

Reviews:

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Source: activecaptain.com

Marina Riviera Nayarit (also known as Marina de la Cruz)

Web: http://www.marinarivieranayarit.com

GPS:
Latitude: 20°45’N
Longitude: 105°24’W

Address
:
Marlin No. 39, La Cruz de Huanacaxtle
Riviera Nayarit, México
Tel:52 (329) 29-555-26
Email: harbormaster@marinarivieranayarit.com

Berths:
340, from 31’ to 400’

Deptth:
14 feet

Rate:
~ $.68/foot/day in the winter
~ $.40/foot/day in the summer

No additional charge for liveaboards


Fuel:
Gas and diesel available
Diesel price is about $4.00 per gallon

Haulout:
Haulout available up to 70 feet (150 ton) with Travelilft, the largest on Mexico's West Coast

Comments
:
Located in the small fishing village of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle about 10 miles Northwest of Puerto Vallarta on the North end of Banderas Bay.  It is a popular destination and the primary spot from which most cruisers travel by land to other places around the Bay.  There is an anchorage outside and, for a fee (about $2 fee per day), it is possible to use the dinghy dock inside the marina.  The dinghy dock fee is not required if just visiting the Port Captain's office.  The office can be hailed on VHF channel 16.  The dinghy dock is now Dock #1 by the marina office.  To reach this, proceed into the marina, passing the fuel dock to starboard and then take a turn to port and it is off to the starboard side at the end of the fairway.  It is a new large marina built in 2008 with all facilities.  Fuel, pump-out, laundry(?), WiFi, yacht club, boat yard with 150 ton travel hoist and repairs, restaurant, provisions, 24hr security.  There are a variety of events hosted by the Marina, including movie nights in the outdoor amphitheater on the breakwater, swap meets, etc. 

This is my favorite marina because it is away from the hustle bustle, cleaner waters, and within walking distance of the village with restaurants on the beach.  The village of La Cruz is a big draw because it is authentic and virtually free of tourists.  While some like the remoteness aspect, Nayarit is the furthest marina from Puerto Vallarta proper. 
A bus stop nearby takes you to PV for about $1.15.  Bucerias a few miles to the South has stores and restaurants.


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Harbormaster Rafael Alcantara Luarte

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Marina map
PictureMap of La Cruz village, source: vallartainfo.com
































































Reviews

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source: activecaptain.com

Marina Vallarta

Web: none

GPS:
Latitude: 20°39.1’N
Longitude: 105°15.0’W

Address:
P.O. Box 350 B, Marina Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico
Tel: +52 322 221 0275, Fax:+52 322 221 0722
Email: marvta@prodigy.net.mx

Beths:
500+, from 31’ to 140’

Depth:
Not given

Comments:
This is the largest marina in the area and lies at the north end of the harbor.
When in normal operation, it has all facilities, laundry, and pump-out facility.  It was reported that Marina Vallarta has been in bankruptcy for several years during which time the marina fell into disrepair with crumbling docks and gates.  Bathrooms were given very low grades ... and generally degraded services.  However, a new owner purchased the marina last year and renovations are underway. 
It is slated to be completed for the start of the 2015-2016 season. Combining forces with Opequimar Centro Marina, local businessman Elias Sacal and with the support of the local neighbourhood and business associations, the Marina will undergo extensive repairs and upgrades in an effort to bring back tourism to this thirty year old destination.

The marina's periphery malecon is lined by hotels, condos, restaurants, bars and related tourist establishments.  This marina is the closest to downtown Puerto Vallarta and the cruise ship terminal.  The marina is also associated with an 18-hole golf course.

Once the marina is totally renovated, the marina will offer a place to dock boats and be close to downtown at the same time.  Since the marina is totally surrounded by condos and stores, it tends to become hot and windless.  On a positive note, it may be a good hurricane hole.  There are many good restaurants and services around the marina complex.  It seems to be more of a powerboat (fishing, charters, etc.) haven than a sailors' mecca.
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Harbormaster is Christian Mancebo (source: Latitude38.com)
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PictureMap of Marina Vallarta area (source: vallartainfo.com)












































Reviews

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Source: activecaptain.com

Marina Nuevo Vallarta

Web:  http://marinanuevovallarta.com

GPS
:
Latitude: 20°41’22”N
Longitude: 105°17’28”W

Address:
Paseo de la Marina Lote 46
Manzana 8 Villa 5
Nuevo Vallarta, Mexico
Tel:+52 (322) 297-7000
Email: juan@marinanuevovallarta.com

Berths:
230, from 22’ to 130’ (after renovations)

Depth:
Not given

Rate:
~ $.60/foot/day in the winter
~ $.48/foot/day in the summer

No additional charge for liveaboards


Fuel:
Not available

Haulout:
Not available


Comments
:
This marina is currently under re-development. Slips seem to be available and are negotiable.  Docks which have not been re-developed are in run-down condition.  The only services offered at present are water and electricity, with space for 80 vessels. Situated in the “El Chino”, inside the living complex Nuevo Vallarta right in front of the hotel and Marina Paradise Village, 3.5 miles NW of the harbor inside its own dredged lagoon. The entrance channel silts up sometimes, so it is advisable to call ahead to check the current depth. 

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Dockmaster Juan Sebastian Estrada
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Isla Isabela, Mexico's Western Coast

9/4/2014

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Isla Isabela could be an anchoring stop when cruising to Puerto Vallarta from Mazatlan but only in good weather.  It has two small marginally sheltered anchorages (S and SE sides), so it’s OK for light prevailing N winds of winter and spring, but not sheltered enough in a Norther, and it’s wide open to S wind.

The Mexico Cruising Guide gives a few tips on this island.
 
Isla Isabela lured Jacques Cousteau here more than 30 years ago to film the rare frigate nests and a pristine underwater habitat. Today, tiny Isabela (281’ volcanic peak, not a mile long) is a National Wildlife Preserve managed by the University of Guadalajara.


Read about the details here.

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Mexico Crime Data For Cruisers

9/21/2011

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The Mexican government has recently released crime data from their drug wars database. It presumably covers all murders to have link to the drug cartels which total at least seven in number.

The number of deaths rose sharply since 2006 until the end of 2010, by far the most violent year with 15,273 persons killed.

 The chart shown by clicking on the link below shows the distribution of where the killings took place down to the city level. While no region has escaped, violent crime is particularly intense in northern and Pacific coastal states. The large red markers show places with over 70 deaths.   The figures show how many of those killed are presumed to be related to the cartels, how many belonged to the security forces, or how many
were innocent civilian bystanders.

 Except for the border towns, the entire Baja Peninsula has fairly low incidence of violent crime. On the Pacific Coast, Puerto Vallarta area is safe but Mazatlan, Z-town and Acapulco has seen its share of problems recently. If possible stay within known resort areas or yachting centers, avoid traveling to Mexico by road and steer clear of U.S. border areas.

Click here for interactive chart

Click on each dot to get the details.

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Cruiser Notes: Los Cabos and La Paz, Mexico

11/30/2010

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This review is mostly based on my travels to Cabo San Lucas and La Paz last year following the Baja Ha-Ha sail rally.  It is an untarnished view of the way I saw the places yacht havens … call the shots as I see them, no sacred cows.

While the 170- vessel Baja Ha-Ha XVI fleet descended on Cabo San Lucas in November 2009 as part of an annual sailing pilgrimage to the cape, the Cabo Isle Marina was able to accommodate all vessels who sought berths without having to resort to raft ups – a rarity, normally.  Weak economic conditions in Baja opened plenty of berthing space in the high-priced Cabo marina on this.  Even with the 25% Baja Ha-Ha discount, berthing costs were very high -- about three times what cruisers would normally pay at many marinas north of the border.  Nevertheless, many cruisers came in for at least one day to replenish supplies, fill water tanks, fuel up, wash vessels, empty garbage bags, and pump out holding tanks.  Those on tight budgets headed out to the anchorage East of the harbor jetty entrance, stretching for several miles with beachfront condos and hotels.  Anchoring in depths ranging from 15 to 60 feet is manageable in most conditions but the noise and wakes from pangas, passenger vessels and jet skis can be a nuisance.  Pangas regularly cruise the wide expanse of the anchorage for about $3 dollars  per passenger from the vessel to the marina – a better alternative to taking the dinghy when the water is churned up or bigger swells roll in. 

After a night in the down, getting back to the vessel in the anchorage can be tricky.  The pangas will be patient with you as you scout around to find your vessel in a sea of hundreds of vessels on a dark night.  Either a pocket GPS aid, or distinctive LED lighting on the vessel will help.

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Baja Ha-Ha Sailing Regatta Guide

3/14/2010

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The official Baja Ha-Ha sailing regatta website is here. You can find everything at the link to get prepared, find crew, register and to know the milestone dates. A few of the key links are below.
  • Mexican Marinas
  • First Timer's Guide to Mexico
  • Everything You Wanted to Know About the Baja Ha-Ha But Were Afraid to Ask
A somewhat dated article scanned from Latitude 38 called "Mexico Debriefing" gives some good tips on what cruisers have learned from the Baja Ha-Ha trip...old but still valid and good insights for newbies. Also, if you are coming down from San Francisco in September for the Baja Ha-Ha, the "San Francisco to San Diego" article from Yachtsman magazine depicts what might be experienced.
  • Mexico Debriefing
  • San Francisco to San Diego

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Mazatlan Cruiser's Guide

3/5/2010

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George Krakie of Marina El Cid (Mazatlan, Mexico) put together a very handy 2009 Mazatlan Cruiser’s Guide for the cruising community visiting the region. It covers everything from places to visit, to services provided in the city, a complete city bus guide, local knowledge, and several pages of an English-to-Spanish translation guidance. A donation of 30 pesos (plus mailing cost) is requested to get a copy of this fact-filled publication. The monies collected for the guide are donated to the two orphanages in Mazatlan. Krakie, who has been living at the marina for three years, is enjoying the amenities of the El Cid Resort living on his s/v Aimee Sean, a Tayana 37 sailboat. He is a delivery captain specializing in sail and power yachts.



Contact:
Captain George Krakie
La Marina El Cid Mazatlan
Sinaloa Mexico 82110
Cell: 011 521 669 123-8087
US Phone: 801 738-2752
E-mail: gkrakie@yahoo.com

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Mazatlan Marinas
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